Week 2
Day 1:
Well, today marks a full week in Neuilly. It’s a cloudy day, and it’s my last run to the market with Aashish…or so we thought. There were no eggs! We got a few odds and ends and then came home. It’s been raining quite a bit here lately so I am making use of bad weather to hole up in the studio. I usually listen to historical podcasts while I work, and I am slowly transitioning to podcasts about learning French. Damn, I can’t believe I successfully finished a teapot! I can really see how much I improved that process from this time last year, and see more clearly what can continue to improve. Something I still see being a bit shifty is scale, but I feel more confident now, seeing one completed form. We had more bike practice today, and Aashish and I are both concerned about my progression. Not that I’m doing bad, but my balance is such a pain, and I tend to panic while trying to get set-up to pedal. Regardless, I made some good steps forward, and I feel ready to try again tomorrow. Our sessions are progressing in length as well, which also boosts my confidence.
Day 2:
I finally got my sleepy bum out of bed at 7 am, with the right motivation. Nirdosh invited me to join her at her friend Arlette’s place to help fire a bisque in the wood kiln on the property. The morning is incredibly foggy, but it adds more to the rustic medieval charm of Neuilly. I understand why the potters and locals love it here. There is so much natural beauty, history, and sights in addition to the clay deposits and community. We stayed for a short shift, where I met Arlette, Javier, and Sophie. They, along with Nirdosh, have work in Arlette’s kiln. The kiln is named Mephistopheles, which is apt, I think, as kilns are devilishly unpredictable. This kiln is having a slow firing for bisque, as the potters want to ensure all the water evaporates and hits the correct temperature to avoid explosions.
I was able to use some French to explain what I am doing here in Neuilly with Nirdosh, and thankfully, I understood most of what was said amongst the potters. To my surprise, of the many potters at La Borne, they represent 30 nationalities and their shared language is French! I really need to brush up. Like I have said, everyone is so nice, so I am glad to be invited to participate and learn. I won’t be joining the late shift as it is Aashish’s last night. I won’t see him for six weeks! Aagh, wow. However, I finally fucking did it man. I finally learned how to ride a bike. I was able to keep my balance long enough to go the full stretch of road where we have been practicing, and then I crashed. I am okay! Aashish recorded it, and it’s quite funny because when I crashed, I rang the bike bell as I fell. It just looks and sounds so silly. I definitely have the confidence and strength now to keep practicing once Aashish leaves for the Hudson Valley tomorrow.
I’ve also been in touch with some folks back at uni regarding other aspects of my project which is of great help. Being an illustrator is a wonderful thing too, and I want to make use of both my skillsets while I am here. For now, I desperately need a shower and to catch up on the U.S. news. I am utterly devastated by the impact of Hurricane Helene on the South and some of the most beautiful parts of North Carolina, and its thriving craft community. So many great artisans and businesses were hit hard, either studios washing away or businesses being irreparably damaged. If you wish to help, spread the word by sharing cerfplus.org . It is fundraising to provide grants for artists in need nationwide. With Hurricane Milton coming, it’s important to help one another where we can, with our hearts or art.
Day 3:
Aashish left early this morning. We woke up at 5:15 to get him out the door in the pouring rain. I cried as he left, but I knew I had to take a deep breath and keep going on with my day. I went back to sleep for a little while, and I couldn’t deny how quiet the gite felt without him. I miss him now, even though I have made it through a full day. I tried riding my bike earlier without his help, but the rain came hard and rough wind. I need to time things better with the bad weather happening. Neuilly is strange, it rains part of the day, and then beautiful autumn sun for a few hours, and soon the clouds roll in and sprinkle again. It makes for a lovely smell of damp earth and grass among the street. My bank stuff sorted itself out, and I can pay Sebastien this weekend. Earlier in the day, I was able to work on a few pots, and I was able to trim them well, their lids, and sculpt some spouts. Tomorrow I will hollow the spouts, and design handles. Nirdosh came and we had a nice critique, so I have more of an idea on what to focus on. I appreciate her direct approach because it helps me stay clear and dial in. We have a demo scheduled for the weekend, so I can watch Nirdosh’s making process for her teapots. Her shop shelves are full of them! Once I had finished trimming those pots and their lids, I felt much better and more confident in this process than I did a year ago back at uni. Also, yesterday marked a year since I submitted my Fulbright application. It’s wild to think about how far I have come in a year. I got married in two countries, I graduated with my BFA, I was awarded this opportunity, and now I am here in France. I worked really hard to earn my way here, and I am still beyond grateful for not only Nirdosh accepting me as her lodger and student, but to all my uni professors and friends who supported and believed in me. They may not have always understood what I was wanting to do, but they saw my passion, and pushed me forward. I know this experience will teach me a lot, because that is what I am seeking. I am so eager to learn and pursue various avenues, and know that my project might tweak a bit along the way. Without Aashish here, I have some independence I have really needed in my life to manage as a real adult. I am so fortunate he supported me all those college years, but I have to put big girl boots on and crash the bike a few times so to speak.
I know there will be challenges ahead, but I'm ready to face them head-on. This journey is about growth, both as an artist and as an individual. As I settle into my new routine here in Neuilly, I'm excited to see what discoveries and experiences await me in the coming weeks. There is a great big potters festival coming up, called Les Grands Feus (the big fires!). It’s an annual exhibition of all the potters in La Borne. Not only will I explore, but I can help Nirdosh with what she needs in her studio space for demonstrations and hosting. I can also meet other potters and see if I can exchange with them as well. I’m not averse to helping anyone at all, as I appreciate the community here, and would like to be part of it anyway I can. Tomorrow we’re going to a French ceramics supplier, and I can get a few small tools. I didn’t have the heart to bring as many metal tools in fear of my luggage being flagged, or special ones being confiscated. I really want a pair of wooden calipers and a potter’s knife!
Day 4:
Happy Thursday all! It’s been a very exciting day indeed. This morning, I joined Nirdosh at the clay supplier almost 70 km away from Neuilly. On the ride there, we got to know each other better and talked about what we love most in ceramics. Once at the supplier, we were able to get the clay needed for her and other members of the La Borne Association. I was also able to buy some tools I wanted, like the wooden calipers and potters knife. I found some nice ribs (I really love using them) and an oval sponge! I think I rather enjoyed the novelty of the shape rather than it’s use, but we shall see! I went through payment at the clay supplier and almost had a heart attack when my card was declined on the tap reader. When I used it again for a chip insert, thankfully I was able to process the payment. I am just hoping my other payments are processed here, as I have a few big ones to submit now (rent, bike, etc).
After we finished at the clay supplier, next door is La Poterie de la Batisse. From the Office of Tourism in Puisaye, “15 generations of clay craftsmen have succeeded one another in bringing this place to life and bringing it the renown it deserves. The old part of the site was no longer adapted to today's techniques. It has been transformed into a living museum to pass on to visitors the heritage and techniques of this art. The 1930s workshop, still in use today, where ceramists turn and shape their pieces, is open to visitors wishing to discover timeless skills.” Nirdosh was my tour guide of the old kiln, and it’s quite something to see. It is massive! I mean, she explained to me that at the height of the pottery, they were fully loading the kiln once a month and firing it. Just unbelievable. There was a small maquette of how the kiln was built, and we saw the firing chamber, and Nirdosh explained how it would function. She’s a really wonderful guide, as she spent so much time researching the history of pottery in the Loire Valley. I am fortunate to spend so much time with her. She really knows the area’s history and understands how traditions have changed. Even more kudos that she is part of organizing an immense group program for the artists of La Borne for Les Grands Feus, celebrating the 10th year of this celebration of their work. She’s truly amazing. Back at home, I helped Nirdosh load up clay into her studio and returned to the gite for lunch. I made a few calls home, and settled in for a short time. I realized though, with sunshine pouring into my window that I should go practice riding my bike. I went to the little side street where Aashish and I practiced, and started up again, without him. Very strange, not hearing his words of encouragement, but also a relief because he wasn’t calling out that I messed up or anything either. (I love his support, it’s just a confusing set of emotions!) I ended up struggling to get going, and kept talking to myself in English and French while picking up speed and improving. I made it up and down the road several times, practice turns, and made it over our small hill on Allee du Bourg. I WAS FLABBERGASTED I DID IT! Going downhill, and braking are still tough, but I managed to only fall maybe thrice? I did start banging into things at the end, I was so tired but I wanted to keep riding. More to look forward to tomorrow then! It’s quite a relief actually, with a few more days practicing, I can make it around like I want to, and help other potters. I’ve got to eat dinner now and finish my teapots. I’ve been listening to some audiobooks too, currently between French podcasts are *Cleopatra’s Daughter by Jane Draycott and Hitchcock’s Blondes by Laurence Leamer.*
Day 5:
The day started out well, we unloaded the wood kiln bisque firing back at Arlette’s place, and I was amazed at how she keeps everything so well organized, and so many pots can fit in that thing! It was nice to be a part of helping out, and I offered my help again for the firings on the 22nd, and the wood delivery to the Ceramic Association in La Borne on the 29th. That gives me more time to practice my biking. Later in the day, after I made lunch (and gave myself a small burn with hot oil), Nirdosh gave me a demo on how she throws lids, spouts and cups off the hump. She has 50 years experience, so watching her skilled hands essentially glide through the clay was amazing to watch. I enjoyed the way we worked as well. She gave the demo, got off of the wheel, and then it was my turn, and we repeated for each task. It will take some practice but all well and good.
Because the sun was out, I thought it would be best to go practice on my bike, and for a few rounds it was going well again, until I tried again on the long road, panicked, and crashed face first into a fence. I have little knowledge about using brakes, so before I even could brake I crashed. Thank god I had my helmet, but I took out my knees pretty bad. They hurt so much. I called my father and Aashish because I was so shaken.
Day 6:
Today, even though my knees are now completely black and blue, I was able to go out to Sancerre with Nirdosh and pay Sebastien. I was able to get some shopping done, and clean up around the gite. The tiles needed a massive mop, and I just wanted things to feel fresh. I did some bucket laundry in the shower stall as well. Nothing majorly eventful, I just try to do some stretches and manage my sore knees. I am just trying to take some time to rest and deal with some personal matters. I finished two teapots, and will include them below.